Traveling to Janesville, WI and the Rotary Gardens

On the fourth of July my husband and I traveled to Wisconsin.  Part of the trip for me was a stop at the Rotary Botanical Gardens is Janesville, Wisconsin.  I drag the hubby, who is not much of a gardener, really to see gardens all the time.  He tolerates it because he usually gets to pick the lunch spot afterwards.

This time, however, he enjoyed the gardens as much if not more than I did.  He was impressed by how much they could fit into a small space, only about 20 acres.  The best part was as a non-profit location they have sponsorships of various types.  Most obviously the benches.  Yet what a perfectly appropriate and tasteful way to accomplish it.  Each bench has a garden theme saying carved into it!  They were fun to find, enjoyable to read and perfect placed for taking a seat to enjoy the views.

I loved that this place was open on a holiday! We arrived just as it opened so we could see all of it and ended up staying longer than planned.  As you exit the visitor center you enter the formal garden.

This just happened to be where the Herb Gardens were located.  Maintained by the Janesville Area Herb Society, there are three different herb gardens. A Sensory Garden, a Medicinal Garden and Culinary Garden.  Each had a somewhat formal design and center statue, but the herbs used and presented had nice variety.

The Sensory Garden - see the clay tiles, they each held a scented herb.

Culinary Herb Garden

My husband and I probably spent an hour looking at all the formal garden patches.  They were each a different theme, like Italy or France in addition to the three Herb Gardens.

There is a lake off to one edge of the Rotary Botanic Gardens that has a public boat launch, so there were a few people out with canoes and kayaks in the water.

Like the Chicago Botanic Gardens they had an orientation map with cut flowers to give you an idea of what was in bloom that day.

A pergola and patio near the lake gave great views.  It was sunny and warm that day, but we found great shade in the fern and hosta gardens.  And some tranquility in the Japanese Gardens.

The "Cliff" garden I think this was called had a striking assortment of plants among rocks.

One of the special features of the Rotary Botanic Gardens is the transitions.  You never feel hurried from one garden to another and most special, the transitions are never abrupt.  You just move from one garden to another with relaxing ease.  The decorative features are picturesque and I had to have my Kodak moment on the crooked bridge.

One of several water features

The trails were attractive and easy to walk and most were accessible by all abilities with only a few not made for wheelchairs.  There was a sculpture garden, an idea garden and a Scottish Garden too.  It was while we enjoyed the sunken garden that we found out that the location was originally a BMX bike race course before being acquired by the Rotary.

Idea garden with sculptures in the background

A planted bench in the Highland Garden.  That red dot is my traveling stuffed lady bug.  She is a photo hog!

The Sunken Garden had a spectacular arch that had been rescued from the Parker Pen building along with other sculpture and architectural items salvaged from historic buildings of the area.

The two items which we still talk about long after the trip was a parsley hedge used in a seasonal garden and an arching elm tree called a  Camperdown Elm that we have decided we must own.

Camperdown Elm which was arched over the walkway

My husband even fit under the arch!

We started with herbs and ended with herbs, as the last place on our trek around the grounds took use to a seasonal display garden that sported these cute parsley hedges, that my husband still talks about.

Parsley hedge

The Rotary Botanic Gardens are just a short jog off Interstate 90 in Janesville, WI and I recommend the detour if you are anywhere near it.  You will not be disappointed.  I took a number of images of the herbs in the Gardens, so check back as I will be sharing more from this wonderful location.

After the flood - the herb garden

We have had several warm and sunny days so I finally dragged myself out to the garden patch to see what it looked like now that the flood waters have receeded.

 In some places there is just a lot of dirt and mud deposited that makes the plants in the hills and rows look non existent   There are plants there, they are just the same color as the dirt so you can't see them in the photo.  I was going for the ghost plant look but the photos do not do it justice.

 In other places there is the deposit of what looks like straw but is actually grasses, probably river grasses.  I went through with the rake and pulled it away from the plants, but I have not raked it all out yet.  These are the ornamental flowers or moth repellent herbs: yarrow, wormwood, artemesia.  It was soothingly fragrant to do this raking.

I raked out a few of the drier areas careful to leave anything green, but I swear these look like sweet peas which I have never grown in this garden so I'm not sure what is going on in this corner.  This is where the annuals grow and normally by now I have cilantro and dill volunteers from last year that are popping up.  I think they were all washed away.

This is what I mean by that river grass.  It is like a thatch that is caught in all the fencing and any place where it would be snagged while flowing through with the swift moving water; like this staked area I have around the tarragon.  Tarragon comes back from the root and there were a few small soldiers popping out of the ground once I cut the string and pulled away the thatch.

From a distance everything looks like grass, but you can see the rows and the path and the plant s turning deeper green, so the restoration is beginning.  I think most of my hills were leveled, shortened and in some cases washed out.

Raised Beds
 I use a style of raised bed that does not need walled sides.  I created it by digging out dirt in long rows and piling the dirt up.  Then I planted the plants in the tops of the rows of hills.  It makes weeding easier and you can add more soil and compost toppings while targeting the actual plants rather than treating, watering or fertilizing the spaces between the plants.  It is also a great way to conserve water.  In some cases I covered the hills with wood chip mulch to preserve the moisture.  That mulch is all gone now.  I am sure someone else is raking it out of their garden.

It is still too soon to tell how many of the perennials have been lost.  The sage looked so sickly that I did not take a photo so it could preserve it modesty, but there were two new green leaves on the very ends of the upright stems so I think it will come back.  The thyme beds were thick with mud and debris and I worked on them first.  I was impressed that these low growers seemed to be less damaged.  I guess the water just flowed over them rather than depositing debris in their stems.

Here are my littlest thyme plants all safe and sound.  The big ones need a washing, they are suffereing from mud.

It rained... There was flooding!

As many may know heavy rain hit northern Illinois last week.  Although I can say that I did not suffer any damage or loss at my home (I still live in an apartment on the third floor!) my gardens were not so lucky.

This is the DuPage River, west branch overflowing near my garden.  The first pangs of panic struck when I saw this on my drive over!

I could get up the back entrance to the garden space, but I could not actually get to the garden.  Of my 3/4 of an acre about two-thirds were covered with water.

This is a view from the edge of the garden back toward the road.

The garden rows are underwater and the berm by the road that keeps out the winter salt may be keeping the water in...

It think I have shown the fence before, that is it in the foreground, beyond the fence is the worst part of the garden where you cannot even see that there are rows of plants planted in there.  After taking this photo I left.

My heart was heavy.  I have had this rented land since before I moved into the apartment and we have lived there for 12 years now. I moved all of my personal plants here when we moved so that I could return them to a garden when we finally decide on a house. It gets wet and soggy sometimes in this space and one cannot always go there in April because  it is muddy and I want to avoid compacting the soil, but it has never been like this.

I was at the Garden Clubs of Illinois Convention over the weekend so I have not yet been back to see if the water has receded, but I expect much of it has.  I decided to allow my obligations from keep me from returning and getting upset.  If the plants do not get air they will die as they did not have much growth to sustain them because of our unseasonably cold Spring.

I am lecturing tomorrow night, so I will not have many follow up photos to post, but I will share an update when I have one.  For now I think I have a few pre-programmed posts which will pop up and I will take a few photos at my program tomorrow, but I do not have much else to share as my excitement for Spring is a bit impaired.

I would like to say that I am thankful that I do not have this garden issue and a home issue like so many others around my area do, so I will be grateful about that!

What do Gardeners do in the Winter?

Freezing temperatures are not about to keep us from thinking green and nurturing plants.

Here are a few tips to keep your plants healthy and your thumb green throughout the winter months:

• Stay vigilant so snow and ice don't damage your outside plants. Gently brush off snow from heavily laden shrubs and trees to prevent breakage. Shovel or blow snow with care to avoid burying shrubs and perennials.

• Keep your garden tidy by continuing to remove broken or fallen branches. A few minutes of tidying now can save a lot of time in the spring and get you some winter exercise.

• If you need to remove ice from sidewalks or driveways, choose an environmentally friendly product that won't harm your plants. Most deicing products damage lawns, and granular fertilizers contaminate our waterways and the Bay. Instead, use sand or products containing magnesium chloride.

Rose - Herb of the Week

The Fragrant Rose or Rosebunda  is this week’s Herb of the Week
NOTE: see all the other posts this week beginning 5/13/12 for uses, recipes and Rose lore.

Roses are probably the most misunderstood and undervalued plants in the modern landscape. Most people seem to believe that all garden roses are troublesome, frail plants that need to be pampered and fussed over with weekly sprays and frequent fertilizing. While this can be true for the devoted, exhibitor, it simply does not have to be the case for the average gardener like myself who likes to look at pretty flowers. I grow over 400 roses of all types in my garden with an absolute minimum of fuss. Most of the time is actually spent cutting roses for friends, family and people just walking through the garden.
       
What often makes Roses so intindating to growers is the number of styles.  So here is an overview of the types of Roses so you can decise what type is best for you and your gardening style.

        Hybrid Teas: This is the flower that everyone pictures when we think about what a rose should look like. The classic spiral centre and individual long stem make this the most popular of the rose classes. The modern hybrid tea can be an excellent garden plant, as breeders are concentrating on improving disease resistance and overall garden performance. Many people believe that fragrance has been bred out of the modern rose, but there are many excellent tea roses with strong perfumes and more being introduced each year. Rose breeders realize that people still want fragrance in their gardens. Hybrid Teas are great for the formal garden, but should not be limited to this use. If you don't want be bothered with fussing about roses, be sure to seek the advice of an experienced rose grower who can advise you on the healthy and hardy varieties for your climate.
       

       Climbing Roses: The modern climber is usually a repeat bloomer and grows around 10 to 12 feet tall or wide. There are so many different types available that it's hard to describe them in one paragraph. The older heirloom climbers tend to bloom only once, but the quality and abundance if often stunning,  these older single bloom climbers are the ones old recipes are based on so they are good to choose for rose cosmetics and food.
       
        Floribundas: Commonly called cluster flowered roses. These come in many shapes and colours. Like the Hybrid Teas, many varieties have excellent perfume, combined with unmatched flower power. Bloom shape can be ruffled and informal or high centered like the HTs. Floribundas are generally considered to be excellent landscape plants, providing bloom from June to Hard Frost. Most varieties grow from 2 to 4 feet tall, but there are a few large ones in this class, (the Americans call the big ones Grandifloras). Several modern varieties are capable of having over 50 blooms at the same time, with only a short rest in between the repeat cycle. If you're looking for roses that are well mannered and provide armloads of cut flowers, try planting a few floribundas.
       
        Old Garden and Shrub roses: These two classes are roses are separate from one another but have similar growth habits. The shrub rose are without question the most underrated plant in the landscape. It's a shame that more people haven't taken the time to familiarize themselves with this group of plants. Shrub roses are a huge part of the rose family with growth habits varying from low ground cover types to large impenetrable hedge types. I have seen a few cities and parks make use of the mediland shrub roses, but with so many types available for the home gardener it's a wonder that more are not sold in nurseries. The shrub type roses are usually very winter hardy and healthy, with the Rugosa's being completely disease free. Some of the shrubs have an added bonus of colourful fall hip displays . If you're the type of gardener who wants a lot of bang for you buck, then this is the type of rose for you.
       
         Mini roses: A really fascinating group of roses with all the characteristics of large rose reduced to mini proportions. You can even find miniature climbing roses with smaller flowers and leaves growing to about 7 feet tall. Most types grow about 14 inches high, are everblooming and come in every colour except true blue or black. These plants are not house plants, but will flourish in any home garden with minimal care.

To Grow

        Roses are best planted in the fall or early Spring. Dormant plants are preferred over fully leafed out plants except for container grown and mini roses. Mini roses are usually purchased fully leafed out and best planted when the weather begins to warm in April or May. If you are transplanting an established rose bush, wait until fall or early spring when the plant is dormant, and remember to give it a judicious pruning.
        Site and exposure requirements depend on the type of rose. Usually 5 to 6 hours of sun is preferred for most roses but there are a few shrubs, climbers and Rugosa types that will grow in more shaded situations. If you must choose between morning or afternoon sunshine, take the earlier option. Early morning sun will dry off the leaves, helping to prevent mildew and blackspot. Roses will tolerate a windy exposed site provided that hardy varieties are chosen or a winter mulch is applied to protect from harsh winter conditions.

Selecting a Site to Plant your Roses
First, choose a sunny area of the garden that gets at least 4 to 5 hours of sun. Do not crowd your rose with other trees and plants. Some roses, such as climbers and shrubs, don’t mind company, but most like to mix with other roses or other non-invasive plants. If you’re replacing an older rose bush, it is important to remove an 18 cubic inch area of soil and replace it with fresh soil. A newly planted rose doesn’t like to grow in the same soil that an older rose bush has been in.

• Bare Root Roses -An easy and inexpensive option for early season planting. Late winter is the best time plant bare-root roses.
• Container Roses - A container rose already has plenty of leaves and maybe some blooms. Early spring is the best time to set out plants grown in nursery containers (vs. bare-root, packaged plants).

Step-by-Step instructions for Planting Roses

1. If you have a bare root plant, soak it in a bucket of water before planting. For roses that are potted, you can water the pot thoroughly and let it sit until ready to plant.
2. Dig a hole approximately 15 inches deep and 18 inches wide. If planting bare root roses, form a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole. If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with your local garden center.
3. Add a small handful of bonemeal to the planting hole. Spade in some compost or peatmoss to loosen the soil. Mix the soil you took out of the hole with more compost or peat moss.
4. Remove the rose from the pot. Carefully place in the hole and shovel the extra soil around the new plant. Plant the rose with the crown slightly deeper than the original soil. The crown or bud union should be about 1 inch under the soil.
5. Gently firm the rose into its new home and water well. Stand back and watch it grow!

Additional Care Notes

I'd love to say these are mine but these are at Cantigny Gardens, Wheaton, IL

Fertilizing

This is the really easy part of rose growing. The first and most important type of rose food is plain old water. A rose that is well watered throughout the summer will grow far better than one that's treated to loads of chemical rose foods but little water. I use organic fertilizer outside with great success. Seakelp is excellent as are fish fertilizers and Canola meal. Many people like the all purpose rose foods available in most garden centres. Try not to get to hung up on stuffing your rose plant full of rose foods, and apply only a small handful about every six weeks if you remember. Fertilizer should not be applied after July 15 , as the plants need to use up what's in the soil and 'harden up' for winter. If all of this sounds too confusing, just throw a handful down before and after the first bloom, and your sure to get pretty roses.

Pests & Diseases

The old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" certainly holds true here. Planting a rose in good soil with plenty of sunshine and air circulation is your first and most important defense against insect and disease problems. Mildew and Blackspot are the two most troublesome problems but with a little effort can be easily controlled. If you don't want to spray fungicides at all, then be sure to plant disease- free roses like the Rugosas or one of the healthiest of the others. Strip off all the leaves before your rose begins to regrow in the spring and watch for any sign of trouble.

Most home gardeners can grow great roses without the use of insecticides. Aphids are easily washed off a plant or are soon eaten up by beneficial insects in a healthy garden. Other insects can be picked off or given the hose treatment. Spider mites are a real problem for people who spray often, but seldom bother the organic garden. When it comes to insects and disease, roses are truly highly over- rated, as many other types of plants from tomatoes to carrots have their troubles but we seem to demand perfection from our roses. Try not to be to concerned about the odd spoiled leaf but take reasonable precautions against bad outbreaks.

 

Herb and Scented Plant Sale 2012

The Oak Park Conservatory (courtesy of their website)

Yesterday was the Herb and Scented Plant Sale held at the Oak Park Conservatory.  It is the major fundraiser for the Friends of the Oak Park Conservatory.  Friends and I have been going to this event for about 20 of the event's 23 years.  We have only missed a couple.  This year I brought along two new friends,  Emily and Kassie.  Emily started herbs in her garden last year or the year before and I have been sharing some of my knowledge with her.  I love the fact that she grows much of her garden from seed which I have not been doing recently so it is great to swap stories about how certain things work from seed.

I have to say the event was as organized as it always is. The smooth flow of people, the plants organized alphabetically by botanical name, the pricing clear and volunteers galore to help you shop and give advice. 



Kassie & Emily with a Purple Sage plant.

The person they had answering questions about shade plants was especially out going and personable.  We had a wonderful time sniffing plants, choosing and imagining different places to plant them.



There was even help to get your car loaded provided by a local Boy Scout Troop.  This is Collin, the young man who watched over my plants and help me load them into the car.

My disappointment really came with the herbs, or should I say lack of herbs.  They had all the stand bys, dill, cilantro, thyme, basil, oregano, etc. but unless you count Lemon verbena, there were no exotic herbs to speak of.  I came home with a record of ONLY two trays of plants. 

I purchased a replacement lemon grass and bought another Lemon verbena, because you can never have too many. I did get another Mojito Mint (I did not being in  he one from last summer that was on the patio) and picked up a French thyme to replace the common thyme that died in the winter.  Then I got my old stand by of Basil Genovese and calendula and a Prince Rupert lemon rose scented geranium, but then I spent my money on a tomato plant, some peppers and a cucumber because there were no more herbs of interest.

I was unable to get even the most basic one step above ordinary herbs which I looked forward to purchasing at this event because of the quality and hardiness in past years.  There was no lemon or purple basil, no scented thyme of any kind, only three basic varieties.  They offered Bergarten and Purple sage, but none of the golden varieties.  They did not even have Rosemary ARP which is the best one for Illinois gardens, nor did they have the prostrate rosemary I was hoping to get to try to make another rosemary Christmas tree with like I did a few years ago.  They only had three types of scented geraniums and those I could get just about anywhere.  I think the flowering plants were definitely popular, but maybe it is time for me to look for another show to find the tender perennial herbs I need to replace those that sometimes do not make it through my Illinois winter, like scented thyme and tri-color sage, because this show offered only what I could get at the Lowes or Walmart.  Now I know that I am supporting a good cause and that is important to me, but so was getting plants I could not find any where else and for me that was missing this year.

As we were leaving my friends asked why I did not buy more flowers.  I realized that for them the show was perfect and successful, but for me as someone who has been coming to this show for over 20 years, the sale was a disappointment.  It was good to know that others would not think so because I believe in the preservation causes of the Conservatory and its Friends group, but I realize that perhaps staff changes that occurred in 2010 and 2011 have relegated the Herb and Scented Plant show to a less important place which resulted in a less than interesting selection of herbs.

July Gardening to do

JULY garden TO DO

Summer comes and I get caught up in weeding and harvesting and I sometimes forget that there are a few other items I should be taking care of as well, so I found this garden to do that I wanted to share with you.  I have items from the zones above and below mine because depending on the weather these things may apply for a Zone 5 gardener like myself.

Zone 4

• Add one last planting of gladioli bulbs for flowers into fall
• Harvest veggies as soon as they're ripe to encourage further production
• Avoid the sight of a weed-infested garden: weed first before you leave on vacation
• Harvest sweet corn when silks are brown and punctured kernels produce a milky juice
• Prevent blossom-end rot on tomatoes by providing plants with at least an inch of water each week
• Let melons ripen on the vine--this is where they will develop their best flavor
• Start fall garden transplants from seed
• Pinch off the blooms on herbs to encourage more production of flavorful leaves
• Petunias, coleus and other summer annuals might be leggy by now. Pinch them back just above a leaf to encourage bushy growth and more flowers
• Leave faded flowers on those plants that form ornamental seed heads, pods, or berries
• Provide water in a shallow pan or birdbath for your feathered and fluttering friends

Zone 5 (northern Illinois)

• Remove annuals with stunted or unusual color; these are usually virus infected and the disease can spread to neighboring healthy plants
• To control disease on fruit trees, maintain a summer spray schedule
• Clean hummingbird feeders filled with nectar solution regularly to ward off mold and bacteria
• Consider drip irrigation and/or soaker hoses for watering in the flowerbed and vegetable garden
• Bats help control mosquitoes; attract these friendly mammals with bat houses
• Muskmelons and cantaloupes are ready for picking when the stem "slips" easily from the fruit with gentle pressure
• Harvest your flowers for pressing and drying just as they reach perfect bloom so you get the best from them for later use.
• Cilantro will bolt in July heat so be prepared to harvest quickly if you see one plant turn to fern-like leaves as they will all quickly follow.  Sow a new crop for harvest in August.
• Pinch off the blooms on herbs to encourage more production of flavorful leaves
• Pinch your basil just above a node where two leaves (either side) are forming, this will make the plant more bushy and give you more leaves for a later harvest.
• Harvest veggies as soon as they're ripe to encourage additional production
• Sharp mower blades prevent leaf blade damage and lawn stress
• Prevent diseases on susceptible rose varieties: apply fungicide every 7-10 days
• Remove rose pedals from spent blooms, but be careful not to snip off the hips which will ripen in the remainder of summer.
• Watch for pests hiding on the underside of leaves, white fly, aphids and similar bugs are very active in the warmer months.
• Lanky annuals need your help! Pinch them back now to encourage bushy growth and more flowers

 

Zone 6

• Deadhead blooming annuals and perennials for repeat flowering
• Harvest veggies immediately when ripe; rotting produce attracts insects
• Avoid weed-infested gardens: weed before you leave on vacation
• Water hanging baskets and patio pots daily during warm weather
• Fertilize annual flowerbeds with an all-purpose fertilizer to encourage more blooms
• Harvest lavender stems for use in bath sachets or drying
• Sharp shears make quick work of herb and flower harvests
• Mow cool season grasses at 3 inches during the summer to shade and insulate the soil
• Enjoy a glass of tea flavored with mint, pineapple sage, or lemon balm from the garden
• Provide birds and butterflies with a shallow water source

Not sure of your zone?  I found this awesome list from the Arbor Day Foundation, where you can put in your zip code and it will tell you the zone you live in and it is updated with the new climate info: http://www.arborday.org/treeinfo/zonelookup.cfm

March TO DO - Seed & Herb Planting tips

In the car this morning on the way to work, my husband and I were discussing gardens.  I am contemplating a new garden patch and he is trying to talk me out of it.  That and the weather report from WGN saying that we will be in the 50s soon put me in a gardening state of mind.  It is almost too early to do much outside, but I did come up with a list of things that can be done in March if you, like me, are in zone 5.

One of the great things to do in March is starting a few plants from seed.

I grew these Chives from seed and am so excited that after bringing them in last winter they are now getting ready to flower.  I should have a batch of chive blossom vinegar before I can even move the planter back outside!

Here is a list of good herbs to start from seed:

            Basil

            Borage

            Chervil

            Chives

            Dill

            Lavender

            Marjoram

            Some mints

            Sage

            Summer Savory

            Thyme

Starting seed in March means that the plants will be about 2 to 3 inches tall by the frost free day in May meaning they will be ready for transplanting directly into the garden.  I am also saying that if you procrastinate like I do there is still time to get a jump on the season with seed.       

Start calendula seeds inside now in individual peat pots for June blooms in the garden which if kept cut will continue to flower for the remainder of summer.  Calendula, known as Pot Marigold, is the preferred marigold for culinary and bath purposes.

When staring seed indoors, some herbs should not have light while germinating.  Calendula, statice, verbena, parsley should be shielded with newspaper until sprouts appear

Plant sugar snap peas close to your fences now for June picking.  In May your luffa transplants can be planted between the pea plants to climb the fence when the latter are finished.

Here are a few other March Tasks to do as well:

As soon as soil is workable (not frosty or muddy) prepare it for your new herb plants by tilling in compost, lime, peat and sand.  Herbs want a neutral pH (on the sweet side) and light friable soil for good drainage.  Friable means easily crumbled.  This is sometimes also referred to as loamy soil which means it is a mix of different sized particles so water drains easily.

I wrote a blog series on soil preparation a while ago.  Here are the links if you want more details:

http://www.backyardpatch.mysite.com/blog/520365/Soil_Structure

http://www.backyardpatch.mysite.com/blog/520369/Soil_Structure_Part_2

Savor your first outside exclusions if you’ve been winter bound.  Take vigorous daily walks amongst your gardens, inhaling deeply.

Prune roses and cover tops of cut stems with Elmer’s glue or special paint from a nursery to keep out borers.  Gradually remove winter mulch, hills, or covers protecting the bushes.  If you hilled up organic material around the roses, gently smooth it out at the base of the plants creating a circular border that will catch rainfall.

If you like me are itching to garden, I hope these ideas keep you active in the garden this March!

Gourmet Garlic - Why not grow your own?

Most people, even those who cook regularly with garlic may not realize the diversity that exists in garlic plants.  The many-clove heads of garlic with the white papery shell that you get at the grocery store, or the already minced and stored in oil garlic that you get at that same store limits your palate considerably.  If you love garlic, then you need to experiment and enjoy its endless variety.

Garlic is as various as the world

Garlic is a highly adaptable plant and therefore exists in a wide range of characteristics, differences in flavor, ease of peeling, hardiness in colder climates, storage properties, number of cloves and size of the head can all show differences, and most importantly the rich and complex flavors can varied as well.

Growing Garlic is actually very easy

1. Start with quality stock.  The best place is to find a local grower or a specialty producer who specializes in “seed” stock.  Separate the cloves and discard any that look unhealthy.
2. Plant cloves in a sunny location in fall, at least three weeks before the ground freezes.  October is a good month.  Plant cloves root end down, pointed tip up two to three inches deep.  Space plantings 6 inches apart with rows 10 inches apart.
3. Plant in loose, loamy soil, with a near-neutral pH.  You can work some nutrients into the soil with composted manure, and then feed them in spring.
4. If your winters are very cold or dry, mulch the beds to protect them from freezing.  This can be accomplished with straw.
5. Keep garlic well watered but to not make the area muddy with too much water.

Harvesting and Storing Garlic

1. Cut off the scapes (flower stalks of hardneck varieties) after they have curled down, but before they uncurl to grow straight out.  If you don’t remove the scrapes, the bulbs will be smaller.  (These scrapes are perfect in stir-fry, soups or salads.)
2. Harvest garlic when about 5 to 6 leaves remain green.  Garlic leaves die from the inward to the outermost leaf upward.  To harvest, first loosen the soil with a spade or fork.  Then gently pull the bulb from the ground, gently rub the soil out of the roots.  Keep harvested bulbs out of direct sunlight and do not rinse them with water.
3. Cure bulbs in a well-ventilated area out of the sun.  With twine, tie the garlic in bundles of 6 to 12.  Hang the bundles to dry and cure, bulb portion downward, for several weeks. Until the leafy potion above the bulbs is completely dry.  (You can braid the leaves and stems to hang the bulbs to dry also – see blog on September, 13,  2010 for directions http://herbal-life-style.blogspot.com/2010/09/braiding-garlic-to-dry.html .)
4.  Trim the leafy potion about 1 inch above the bulb; trim the roots to about ¼ inch long.  Brush soil from the roots with a toothbrush.  Remove the outermost dirty bulb wrapper with your thumb or the edge of the toothbrush.
5. Store the garlic in a netted bag, like those used for onions, lemons and potatoes.  This will allow air to circulate.  Keep the garlic in a cool, well ventilated area, but do not store it in the refrigerator or below 50 degrees or it will sprout.  Ideal storage conditions are 56 to 58 degrees with a relative humidity of 45 to 50 percent similar to the conditions of a good wine celler.  However, this isn’t really required; garlic will keep just fine even with higher temperatures and more humidity.  Just not too hot.  (I made the mistake of storing mine in the cupboard next to the refrigerator.  When I moved it to the pantry, they kept longer and stopped sprouting.)